Southampton - If a picture is worth a thousand words, then be sure the picture can speak well for itself.

Certainly an argument can be made that with large-scale contemporary pieces, a frame would actually detract from the visual experience. For the most part, though, the right frame is your first line of defense against an otherwise wonderful piece of art fading into relative obscurity against your wall.

Frames are critical to showing your art to best advantage. (hampshireframeandart.com)

Viewed in this context, frames are critical to showing your art to best advantage. The frame should not only enhance the composition of the work but also create a harmonious tie with the surroundings where it will be hung. You want the frame to be a seamless part of the artwork, as if the artist intended for exactly that one frame to be used when the project was conceived.

Period frames have come to be valued for their stand-alone beauty and have themselves become collectibles in recent years. Empty frames displayed under picture lights or used on mirrors are attractive in their own right.

While choosing a frame that reflects the period of the artwork is an acceptable method of selection, you could opt for a more finely tuned solution over authenticity and get a more dynamic result.

Here are some ideas:

 • Pull out a medium to dark shade from the piece for the frame color. In this way you will contain and detail the art while supporting the overall aesthetic.

 • If there is a tiny pattern running through the picture, then choosing a frame with a texture that references the pattern could lend continuity.

 • Watercolors have magical color over-laps that are part of the medium. Select a frame that offers some variation in the finish to compliment the effect.

Opt for a more finely tuned solution. (getreligion.org)

Think of the frame as a kind visual container to help move the viewer's eye around the artwork without pinpointing one aspect or area. If the frame is too light in color or heft, the viewer's eye will just keep moving without really stopping to notice the art. If you choose a frame that's too dark and/or big, it will overpower the piece. It will look strange too, like bushy black eyebrows on a platinum blonde. Black frames have a place but not with artwork that is delicately layered with pastel color washes.

Pictures Of Lily (Lilies)
Photography is where black frames can be used to great effect. A minimalist approach with the simplest frame possible is best, so as not to compete with the photo. At one time, photographs were always put into narrow metal section frames with no distinction, as one might do for exhibition only. This trend is no longer in vogue. Photographs are treated as individual works rather than part of a grouping by default, with dark frames in a wider profile than used in the past

To The Mat
Art photographs and works on paper are well served by employing a mat as a visual border beside the actual frame. Like a frame, a mat enhances the art with the end game being that all three components, art, mat and frame create a cohesive display. Practically speaking, the mat provides a means to keep the artwork from touching the glass directly, which will help preserve it.

A mats enhances the art. (utrechtart.com)

The basic formula for standard matting dimensions is that the mat be about two and a half times the width of the frame. This is generally the best proportion to show off a large photo to best advantage.

While there are no rules, sepia toned photographs or those with an antique quality, usually look best in a vintage cream colored mat, while more contemporary works can stand up to bright white. In some cases photo gray is a good option too.

Usual and customary are mats in neutral shades but there are other options.

 • In the same way one might pull a medium to dark shade from the artwork itself for the frame color, one could also do the same with mat color. A black mat (used with a black frame) would bring emphasis to any black figures within the picture.

 • Not all mats are made the same. Linen and silk mats add subtle texture and richness even in neutral colors.

Work With What You Have
A very small photo doesn't automatically demand a very small mat and frame. Use a vertical format and increase the standard dimensions to four inches on the top and sides with five inches on the bottom. Placing the photo high into the top third of the mat will also create a compelling effect.

Linen and silk mats add subtle texture and richness. (treeoflifegallery.com)

Sometimes a round peg in a square hole actually works, visually that is. A round opening for the photo in a square frame will draw you right into the picture. This is obviously an uncommon option and not all framers will have the equipment to cut a mat this way. You may have to research for the framers that do.

A horizontal work can become a panoramic view by making a horizontal presentation with a mat that is narrow on the top and bottom and wider on the sides.

You have a choice to reveal or conceal a photographer's signature. (countryliving.com)

What if your art is frayed on the edges, or is even an historical document, you can play up the "been around for years" look by floating it on top of the mat to show the imperfections. Here's a case where double matting is a good idea to allow breathing room between the art and the glass or acrylic surface.

You have a choice to reveal or conceal a photographer's signature, unless the autograph is intended to be part of the art, in which case, make sure it shows.

A Consideration Not To Be Overlooked
The "time equals aging" equation comes to all things eventually and is merciless. Your artwork will look like an old stack of newspapers (i.e., faded, brittle and disintegrating) unless you employ a checklist of conservation materials for your framing project. Use these and your art will be a veritable "sleeping beauty" of stability for a hundred years. Your best bet is to work with a serious conservation framer to cover all the bases because the materials involved have very particular specifications.

Don't be surprised if your first choice of "the right frame" could cost you more than the artwork itself. (marthastewart.com)

To wit:
Conservation framing uses acid free materials for the hinges, mat and board backing to prevent the build-up of vapors from the framing materials. Over time acidic vapors cause staining, fading, embrittlement, deterioration and actual decomposition. The mat boards should be 100 percent cotton rag or high-alpha-cellulose content, acid free virgin pulp. The backing should also be puncture proof and water resistant as well. Glazing materials, either glass (shatterproof to protect the art if the frame falls) or acrylic should be chosen for their ability to protect against ultraviolet (UV) light. In the case of photographs, special conservation matting is required because of the chemicals in the developing emulsion.

Sticker Shock
As you can see, just any old frame, made of non-specified materials probably isn't going to do the deed of enhancing your artwork and preserving same for a long period of time. Of course, the specificity of conservation materials will naturally add to the cost of framing. Don't be surprised if your first choice of "the right frame" could cost you more than the artwork itself. Fortunately, you will be able to find more than one "right frame" if you decide in advance a price range for the framing expenses.

First Things First
It won't serve your artwork if you think of framing to go with the décor, in the same way you think of adding a throw pillow to perk up the sofa. Honor the art first, then decide the "place of honor" in terms of whether the art and the décor are on speaking terms.

Honor the art first. (decorpad.com)

After you have accomplished appropriate framing, then it's time find your beautifully enhanced artwork a place to hang. Even if a piece is to hang on a wall by itself, some thought should be given to how it fits within the context of the room design.

For example, a ceramic frame with puppies and kittens surrounding Junior's first drawing could be charming in his room, but questionable in the living room.

In other words, will the artwork look at home, or like an orphan?

There are no rules but certain frame types, and presumably the art that fills them are a natural fit with certain types of décor.

 • Ornate gold frames for representational art and botanical prints are a good fit for more formal decoration schemes such as 17th or 18th century, Victorian or even English country décor. Eclectically styled rooms are a possibility too. Gold and silver leaf, elaborately detailed brass or carved wood frames will work too.

 • Modern pieces such as abstracts that are to be used in a contemporary setting are compatible with metals like pewter, stainless steel and brass, or wood and lacquer if in sleeker styles.

 • A country themed décor can be emphasized and carried through by using rough-hewn wooden frames for native landscapes, portraits or informal style botanicals.

 • Asian prints are often displayed in highly polished wooden frames with rounded corners.

Groupings create their own special universe. (utrechtart.com)

The Power Of Numbers
There is an interesting caveat to the notion of blending appropriate frame style with room style. If the room is contemporary, and you also have a collection of traditional paintings in ornate gold 17th or 18th century frames, then the juxtaposition of styles could work to your advantage. The key is to have enough of one style or compatible styles to form their own statement. A one-off approach won't have the same effect.

Groupings create their own special universe. The frames don't have to match but should play well enough with each other to give the sense of a unified statement.

What About The Big Picture?
As with every other aspect of room design, all your actions will come from considered decisions. There is no such thing as "random accident chic."

It has been fairly said that your artwork is like your jewelry when you dress. It sets the tone for your ensemble, as it will for your rooms. In this way, your artwork is a very important part of completing the picture of your beautiful home.

In Part II, we'll shine a light on the finer details of illumination and your artwork.