Southampton - New Year's Eve 2010! A decade ago we passed into a new millennium and this year we pass into the second decade of that millennium. How should we welcome it, in a pair of jeans and an old sweater or in the consummate gentlemen's de rigueur?
Yes, I am talking about the tuxedo. It is a form of attire that makes even the least attractive among us extraordinarily debonair. I have owned one or more since I was in my 20's, and as recommended for attendance to study at Saint Andrews University in Scotland, I purchased one for my son Jack when he was 17. Yes, if nothing else a European education does indeed create well dressed gentlemen.
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John Legend, with Christine Teigen, looks stylish in a tuxdeo at the Official Cipriani New Years Eve party. Photo courtesy of PatrickMcMullan.com |
I can only wonder in amazement why men resist achieving the ultimate pinnacle in appearance, decked out in a tuxedo. On my worst nights, with the worst hair, after four hours sleep and a bad flight, I have shown up to a wave of compliments regarding my
Jeffrey Banks or Armani tuxedo. I am thrilled when the event invitation reads "Black Tie" or "Formal Attire," as it gives me a reason to pull these boys out and show them off.
The Tuxedo is indeed named for the city of Tuxedo, New York, where it first made its appearance in America in 1886 as the informal dining uniform of the men of the Tuxedo Park Club. Introduced in the United State by James Potter, his first contact with the short, tailless smoking jacket designed by Henry Poole & Co. of Saville Row fame was through Edward VII of Great Britain, then the Prince of Wales. In England this manner of dress is known as a "Black Tie" dinner jacket and worn at affairs in the country, whereas the more formal tailed version is known as "White Tie."
The black tie dinner jacket was reportedly first worn as formal attire by Griswald Lorillard at the Autumn Ball of the Tuxedo Club. It is from this appearance that it got its name the Tuxedo. It is inaccurately used in the U.S. to describe all manner of men's formal dress, which is a mistake as tails should be referred to as "White Tie" and a white dinner jacket ala Humphrey Bogart in "Casablanca" is, simply, a white dinner jacket.
In the purist and simplest definition for our use, a tuxedo is a black, tailless suit with satin lapels and satin covered buttons. The pants have a subtle satin strip covering the outside seam and they are never cuffed. Generally suspenders are worn as tuxedo pants do not have belt loops. Even though we have all suffered through the 1970s era of powder blue or brown bridal party and prom tuxes, make no mistake about it a true tuxedo is and has always been black.
The jacket can be double or single breasted and it should be worn over a collared or winged collar white shirt that may or may not be pleated. I said pleated gentlemen, not ruffled! Although not a requirement, black studs are a striking touch instead of simply buttoning up the shirt and a French cuff with cuff links are mandatory in my opinion. Although it is becoming more and more common to see long satin ties as part of this ensemble, I still prefer the traditional black satin bow tie. When the jacket is single breasted, a black satin cummerbund or low cut vest coat should be worn. Black, shinny, laced patent leather shoes are the general rule when it come to footwear; however, there are various styles of "tuxedo slippers" or loafers that are quite appropriate and sometimes dazzling.
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Actor Keith Robinson, who attended Devyne Stephens' 2009 annual Christmas gala at the Atlanta History Center, clearly knows that a splash of color takes a tux to new heights. Photo by Wire Image |
Within these basic parameters there are subtle differences that can distinguish one tuxedo from another based upon personal tastes. There are three types of collars: notch, peak and shawl. The notch is most like the collar one might find on a proper business suit, the peak has an exaggeratedly pointed upward peak below the notch of the lapel and a shawl, my personal favorite, has no notch or peak but simply flows down the jacket as a sash of satin. I think the shawl works particularly well in the double breasted version of a tuxedo although my latest tux is a single breasted shawl collar.
The jacket can be single, double or non- vented in the back. I prefer the latter and absolutely when it comes again to the double breasted tuxedo or dinner jacket. To which I should note, a white double breasted dinner jacket with tuxedo pants and a black bow tie is now accepted as suitable formal evening attire, whereas once it was considered more appropriate for afternoon events or dinning in nightclubs.
As noted in a previous column, one can add color to the tuxedo ensemble by way of a matching bow tie, cummerbund and pocket square combinations. Also a silk scarf is a perfectly acceptable accent to a tuxedo. In all these cases remember, subtle understated elegance is always the wise choice.
Although an admitted traditionalist, I must confess that I was once totally knocked out by a Nehru collar tuxedo I saw a gentleman wearing at an affair. There was something about the particular cut and style that drew everyone's attention and admiration. It was absolutely stunning and, of course, he refused to tell me where he bought it or the name of his tailor. Traditionalist or not, if I could get my hands on that variation of the tuxedo I would certainly add it to my wardrobe.
So there you have it gentleman, another plea from this columnist for a better dressed America. You can certainly rent a tuxedo, but why not permanently add this classic to your closet. Even if you wear it only once a year while toasting in the new and ushering out the old, it will mark you as gentleman with taste and panache, no matter what the future holds. Happy New Year!
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