When I was growing up, there were really only two things anyone ever did with pumpkins. Either you cut a hole in the top, scooped the seeds out, and carved a face on to the front for a Halloween decoration, or you bought canned pumpkin to make pumpkin pie. Both are the kind of cherished childhood memories that many of us have - but there is so much more that you can do with the most famous of the winter squash varieties.

Pumpkins can be boiled, baked, steamed – and my favorite - roasted. We know all about the Thanksgiving staple, the pie, but they can also be cooked and mashed like potatoes or used in soups. It's an extremely versatile ingredient that goes well beyond the sweet breads, muffins and other dessert preparations we're all familiar with.

In Japan, pumpkin is prepared fried in tempura batter. In Thailand, small pumpkins are steamed with custard inside and served as a dessert. In Italy, pumpkins can be used with cheeses as a savory stuffing for ravioli. And don't forget the pumpkin juice they serve at Hogwarts in the Harry Potter movies - such beverages, both alcoholic and non-alcoholic - are consumed in many parts of the world. Because Americans are mostly familiar with the sweet, rather than savory preparations, I've chosen two recipes that are definitely not meant as desserts. The first, a curried pumpkin soup, is an autumnal staple in my house.

The second, a "fondue," is something I just discovered over the weekend. Try it - you're going to like it. By the way, we're beyond lucky here on Long Island to have ready access to the cheese pumpkin - a variety that is near perfect for cooking. Use it if you can get your hands on it at a local farmstand. But remember, you can also substitute butternut squash in most pumpkin-based recipes.

Curried Pumpkin Soup

Curried Pumpkin Soup

2 medium onions, finely chopped (2 cups)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 large garlic cloves, minced
1 1/2 tablespoons minced peeled fresh ginger
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/8 teaspoon ground cardamom
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
3/4 teaspoon dried hot red pepper flakes
2 (15-oz) cans solid-pack pumpkin (3 1/2 cups; not pie filling)
4 cups water
1 1/2 cups reduced-sodium chicken broth (12 oz.)
1 (14-oz) can unsweetened coconut milk (not low-fat)
1/4 cup olive oil
2 teaspoons brown mustard seeds
8 fresh curry leaves

 • Cook onions in butter in a wide six-quart heavy pot over moderately low heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, three to five minutes. Add garlic and ginger and cook, stirring, one minute. Add cumin, coriander, and cardamom and cook, stirring, one minute. Stir in salt, red pepper flakes, pumpkin, water, broth, and coconut milk and simmer, uncovered, stirring occasionally, 30 minutes.

 • Purée soup in batches in a blender until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids), transfer to a large bowl, and return soup to pot - keep soup warm
over low heat.

 • Heat oil in a small heavy skillet over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking, and then cook mustard seeds until they begin to pop, about 15 seconds. Add curry leaves and cook five seconds, then pour mixture into pumpkin soup. Stir until combined well and season soup with salt. Soup can be thinned with additional water.

Cooks' Note: Soup can be made one day ahead and cooled completely, uncovered, then chilled, covered.

Roast Pumpkin with Cheese "Fondue"

Roast Pumpkin With Cheese "Fondue"

1 (15-inch) baguette, cut into 1/2-inch slices (7 oz. total)
1 (7-pound) cheese pumpkin
1 1/2 cups heavy cream
1 cup reduced-sodium chicken or vegetable broth
1/2 teaspoon grated nutmeg
2 1/2 cups coarsely grated Gruyère (6 oz.)
2 1/2 cups coarsely grated Emmental (6 oz.)
1 tablespoon olive oil

 • Preheat oven to 450°F with rack in lower third. Toast baguette slices in one layer on a baking sheet in oven until tops are crisp (bread will still be pale), about seven minutes. Transfer to a rack to cool.

 • Remove top of pumpkin by cutting a circle (three inches in diameter) around stem with a small sharp knife. Scrape out seeds and any loose fibers from inside pumpkin with a spoon (including top of pumpkin; reserve seeds for another use if desired).

 • Season inside of pumpkin with a half-teaspoon of salt; whisk together cream, broth, nutmeg, one teaspoon salt and a half-teaspoon pepper in a bowl. Mix together cheeses in another bowl.

 • Put a layer of toasted bread in bottom of pumpkin, cover with about one cup cheese and about a half-cup cream mixture. Continue layering bread, cheese, and cream mixture until pumpkin is filled to about a half-inch from the top, using all of the cream mixture. (You may have some bread and cheese left over).

 • Cover pumpkin with top and put in an oiled small roasting pan. Brush outside of pumpkin all over with olive oil. Bake until pumpkin is tender and filling is puffed, about an hour and fifteen minutes to one hour and a half.

Cooks' Note: Pumpkin can be filled two hours before baking and chilled. Scoop into bowls to serve.