For some reason, pears often end up playing second fiddle to autumn's most bountiful fruit - apples. But, for those of us who actually prefer pears to apples for out-of-hand eating, this is a great time of year.

Last week, my fruit share included not only locally grown Bartlett pears, but also a handful of tiny, super-sweet seckel pears. I've been eating one a day to make them last.

You might not know this, but pears are often gathered before they are fully ripe, while they are still green, as long as they snap off the tree when lifted. Apparently, if left to ripen and turn yellow on the tree, the sugars will turn to starch crystals and the pear will have gritty texture inside. We've all tasted those gritty, mealy pears. They are still tasty, but nothing like what they can be.

As much as I love eating fresh, crisp pears without any modification, they are also extremely versatile in the kitchen. In their raw state, they are a great snack and can be sliced or cubed into salads - try mixing in some diced pear the next time you make chicken salad.

Chicken with Pear and Leek Sauce

Cooked, the uses for pears are seemingly endless, with both sweet and savory preparations possible. Here are two recipes that I've tried myself. In fact, I'm going to make this chicken again Friday night when my sister in-law comes to dinner. It's the perfect early fall dish for an early fall meal. Salut!

Chicken with Pear and Leek Sauce
Makes four Servings

1 large leek, white and light green parts only, thinly sliced
4 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided
4 large boneless, skinless chicken thighs (about 1 1/2 pounds), trimmed
3/4 teaspoon salt, divided
1/2 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, divided
1 large firm ripe pear, peeled and diced
3/4 cup reduced-sodium chicken broth, divided
2 teaspoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons currant jelly
1/4 cup chopped walnuts, toasted

1. Place sliced leek in a colander; rinse and drain well.
2. Heat two teaspoons oil in a large nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Season chicken with 1/4 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper and cook until golden brown and no longer pink in the center, four to five minutes per side. Transfer to a plate and tent with foil to keep warm.
3. Reduce heat to medium and add the remaining two teaspoons oil to the pan. Add the leek and cook, stirring, until beginning to brown and soften, about two minutes. Add pear and 1/4 cup broth; simmer until the pear is soft and the broth is evaporated, about two minutes.
4. Meanwhile, whisk the remaining 1/2 cup broth and cornstarch in a small bowl. Add currant jelly to the pan and cook, stirring, until melted. Stir in the cornstarch mixture, the remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper. Bring to a boil, stirring, and cook until thickened, about one minute. Return the chicken and any accumulated juices to the pan and turn to coat with sauce. Serve sprinkled with walnuts.

Poached Pear Tart with Caramelized Pistachios

Pastry cream
2/3 cup shelled raw unsalted natural pistachios
7 tablespoons sugar, divided
1 1/3 cups whole milk
4 large egg yolks
3 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) chilled unsalted butter, cut into four pieces
5 tablespoons whipping cream

Poached Pear Tart with Caramelized Pistachios

1. Finely grind pistachios and three tablespoons sugar in processor. Transfer nut mixture to heavy medium saucepan; add milk and bring to boil.
2. Whisk remaining four tablespoons sugar, yolks, and cornstarch in medium bowl to blend. Gradually whisk hot milk mixture into yolk mixture.
3. Return mixture to same pan; whisk constantly over medium-high heat until mixture boils and thickens, about one minute.
4. Remove from heat. Whisk butter into pastry cream, one piece at a time.
5. Transfer pastry cream to bowl; press plastic wrap directly onto surface. Cover and chill at least four hours. Stir in cream. (Can be made two days ahead. Keep chilled.)

Poached Pears
3 cups fruity red wine (such as Zinfandel)
3/4 cup sugar
Peel from one orange, removed with vegetable peeler in strips
Peel from one lemon, removed with vegetable peeler in strips
Five medium-size firm but ripe pears (such as Anjou), peeled, rubbed with cut side of lemon wedge

1. Bring wine, sugar, orange peel, and lemon peel to boil in heavy large saucepan, stirring until sugar dissolves. Add pears; bring to simmer.
2. Cut parchment paper round to fit pan; press paper atop pears. Partially cover pan; reduce heat to medium-low and simmer gently until pears are tender, turning occasionally, about 30 minutes.
3. Transfer pears and poaching liquid to medium bowl. Cool to room temperature. (Pears can be prepared two days ahead. Cover and refrigerate.)

Caramelized Pistachios
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons water
1/2 cup shelled raw unsalted natural pistachios

1. Line rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
2. Stir sugar and two tablespoons water in heavy small saucepan over medium-low heat until sugar dissolves.
3. Increase heat and boil without stirring until syrup turns medium amber color, occasionally brushing down pan sides with wet pastry brush and swirling pan. Immediately add pistachios; stir until caramel is deep amber and coats nuts.
4. Immediately spread nuts on prepared baking sheet, separating any clumps. Cool completely. (Can be made two days ahead. Store airtight at room temperature.)

Crust
1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
9 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 large egg yolk

1. Preheat oven to 375°F.
2. Butter nine-inch-diameter tart pan with removable bottom.
3. Blend flour, sugar, and salt in processor. Add butter and cut in using on/off turns until mixture resembles coarse meal.
4. Add egg yolk and blend in using on/off turns until moist clumps form. Press dough onto bottom and up sides of prepared pan.
5. Freeze crust 15 minutes.
6. Bake crust until golden brown, about 20 minutes. Cool completely in pan on rack. (Can be made one day ahead. Let stand at room temperature.)

Put it all together:

1. Remove pears from poaching liquid. Pour poaching liquid into medium saucepan; boil until syrup is reduced to 1/2 cup, about 10 minutes. Chill wine syrup until cold.
2. Cut pears lengthwise in half. Scoop out cores and center veins; cut off stems. Place pears, cut side down, on triple-thick layer of paper towels. Cover with triple-thick layer of paper towels. Pat pears dry, changing paper towels as needed to absorb excess liquid. Cut each pear half lengthwise into four to six slices.
3. Spread pastry cream in crust. Arrange pear slices decoratively atop pastry cream, covering completely. (Can be prepared two hours ahead. Cover loosely and chill).
4. Scatter caramelized pistachios over tart. Cut tart into wedges and serve with wine syrup.

You can pick up all varieties of pears in the Hamptons at Seven Ponds Orchard located at 65 Seven Ponds Road in Water Mill (Open daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. from June to November) or at Wickhams Fruit Farm located at 28700 Main Road in Cutchogue (Open Monday to Saturday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. from May to December).