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Added: June 28, 2006, 4:28 pm

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Sweet Southwestern Heat in East Hampton – Turtle Crossing

Right where the traffic gets a chance to breathe in East Hampton after the windmill you'll find Turtle Crossing. The aroma of smoky barbeque will easily draw you through the door and the sounds of happy customers confirm that this is a great place any time of the year.

Arugula Salad - delicious, light, and crisp.

The d้cor is easy and casual with fun rustic signs scattered about. The bar is simple and there's room for outdoor dining. A great spot to people watch in the summer we're sure! As we slid into our very comfortable booth owner Nancy Singer came by to greet us – as she does for each and every customer.

She and her husband Stanley had wanted to be close to the beach and they loved the area so they settled here and opened their restaurant soon after in 1994. Nancy walked us through the menu – a very tempting tour and we wanted a bit of everything. We started with their signature Turtle Crossing Quesadillas, the Arugula Salad, and the Char Grilled Corn on the Cob. This feast for the eyes is filled with complex flavors – and each bite is a mix of hot and sweet.

The quesadillas are a combination of caramelized onions, guacamole, and mango salsa. A fantastic vegetarian dish on its own. The tortillas are crisp and warm while the onions are sweet and slightly crunchy. The mango salsa is a sweet end to a delicious starter. Ours were served with jalapeno buttermilk hushpuppies on a sweet aioli. The crisp outside crust crunched and the slightly sweet center was creamy and light. The simple Arugula salad is combination of arugula, endive, and radicchio tossed with a zesty mustard citrus dressing. Finished with a bit of Gorgonzola cheese crumbles and served on a crisp tortilla, each bite is a bit peppery with a sweet garlic aftertaste. This is a meal on its own!

The infamous Char Grilled Corn on the cob is a favorite around the globe. The unusual mix of grilled corn, Cotija cheese, and chili powder are addictive. We had the pleasure of Chef Wolf's company while we sampled this delicious starter and pried the secret of this dish out of him. He told us that he starts with sweet local corn and steams each piece for about 3 minutes, and then they're headed for the grill to roast and caramelize. While that's roasting he mixes up the "glue" – the secret spread that helps the cheese stick. A simple mix of mayonnaise, garlic, and chipotle peppers that is very savory. After roasting he brushes the corn with the glue and then rolls each cob in the salty grated cheese. A quick sprinkle with chili powder and you're in heaven. The mellow cheese, so unusual and familiar at the same time, follows the hot rush of chili to ease the palate.

Turtle Crossing Quesadillas & Jalapeno Buttermilk Hushpuppies

As we waited for the main plates we sipped Pomegranate Margaritas and enjoyed the cool breeze that sauntered through the dining room. The salt-crusted rim enhanced the bold fresh flavor. A lovely companion for each savory morsel we were about to devour.

New on the menu this year is the BBQ Mango Salmon served with baby spinach and roasted Plantain Black Bean Mash. The first bite is sweet with a pepper tang that's filled with mango flavor. We found the spinach extremely fresh and flavorful and the mash hearty and slightly sweet. A great substitute for potatoes any day. After the first taste my companion exclaimed, "this is like barbeque sushi!"

You can't leave the table without trying the barbequed meats that are so delectable they would have a vegetarian considering switching food preferences. We sampled the Three Meat Combo (Pulled Chicken, Pulled Pork, and Brisket) as well as the ribs. This platter was served with black beans and whipped sweet potatoes – a balance of sweet for the rush of heat to come. The potatoes are a spicy mix of brown sugar and Southwestern spices and the black beans are earthy and satisfying. The meats are all slow cooked to tender perfection and the succulent ribs literally fall off the bone while the chicken is a juicy delight. The brisket packs a tempting punch and falls apart with a fork – no knife needed here! The secret sauce is not too thick or too thin – and it didn't smother the food. There was just enough to have us licking our fingers without ruining our clothes.

Main plates - filled to the brim with flavor.

When we asked Chef Wolf about his foods unusual mix of "sweet heat" that he's created over the past three years as head chef, he explained that his food is a balance of bold spices and sweet finishes. That to be enjoyed each bite shouldn't burn and that the flavors of the meat and the sauces should work together. We heartily agree! In his brief moments of free time in the kitchen he can be found enjoying a Turtle Crossing quesadilla and a little pulled pork. When he has a chance to really sit down and enjoy his meal with his family – his wife and their daughters Alexa and Kayla and son Jamee – he heads straight for the ribs and garlic mashed potatoes.

No meal is complete without dessert and we sampled the Key Lime Pie. Each bite was a fresh tangy taste of summer! Chef Wolf prepares the pies each day with fresh fruits and makes the crusts by hand. This work of love has big chunks of lime and fresh whipped cream. We thought it was well worth the extra time on the treadmill.

There is no doubt that after the first bite at Turtle Crossing you'll be hooked. Chef Wolf's "sweet heat" has many local celebrities coming back for more including America's Sweetheart Katie Couric who loves the onion straws, Chef Mario Batali who picks up ribs and zucchini chips, and Chef Bobby Flay stops in for the ribs too. Other notable names in the Turtle Crossing guestbook include Alfred Portale of Gotham Bar & Grill and ex-President Bill Clinton.

Turtle Crossing is open daily for lunch and dinner and is available for off-site catering. During the summer enjoy your BBQ with live music! Turtle Crossing is located at 221 Pantigo Road, East Hampton, 11937, phone 631-324-7166, fax 631-324-7253, and on the web at www.turtlecrossing.com.


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