Right across from the town pond, under the ever-watchful eye of the swans and geese that call it home, sits the Maidstone Arms and CoCo Restaurant. Brought to us by Peter Miller, well known in Sag Harbor and across the east end, this gem of a restaurant is a shining example of that well earned reputation, and worth a visit.

Pulling into the 'blink and you'll miss it' driveway right after Montauk Highway turns north, the Maidstone Arms is set up on the hill for a perfect view. The plentiful trees, that are large enough to predate many of the buildings in town, provide a perfect late afternoon shade and shelter from the traffic and noise.

Inside, the Inn has a homey feel that makes us wish we were sampling the accommodations as well as the food. Deep wood furniture and accents mixed with punches of color in the drapes and even the wallpaper warm the room up. We could easily picture ourselves curling up in front of a generously sized fireplace here come winter. Turning our attention to the restaurant, the color and warmth continues as the deep earth tones and warm lighting give the spacious dining room a very cozy feel. The choices of several corner tables with bench seats and plentiful pillows add to the soft atmosphere.

Taking our seats, we opened our menu to find many of our local favorite 'comfort' foods in the soups and salads as well as the interestingly unique like the breaded brie with a sweet red pepper puree. Selecting a crisp California Chardonnay off the wine menu, we decided to try a few items off the plentiful appetizers menu before settling in for the main course.

Cajun Grilled Salmon

Starting with a local favorite, we tried the Crab Cake - generously sized, it's big enough to share. Resting on a black bean and spiced tai mayonnaise bed, there's just enough spice to compliment the crab cake without overpowering the delicate crab taste. Next we tried the Spring Roll, a surprisingly dense and tasty dish. The shitake mushrooms, cabbage, and shredded pork have a creamy taste, but are combined well with the choice of sweet or spicy dipping sauce. A heartier appetizer than its spring name alludes, be careful not to over-order if you want to leave room for dessert.

Next we tried the muscles in cream sauce as well as the Beef Carpaccio. Similar to the other dishes, the muscles are generously portioned as they round out the bowl, topped with crusty seasoned garlic bread. It took a little bit of work to clear a path to the cream sauce in the bowl for dipping, but it was well worth the effort as the succulent muscles were tasty enough to make a meal. The Beef Carpaccio was artfully arranged with a generous dollop of a buttery onion and cabbage garnish. The beef, delicately seared at the edges was so tender, we had trouble getting it all onto the fork without it coming apart. Smooth in taste, it melded well with the buttery sauce to keep us going back for more.

We could have easily made a meal from the appetizer side of the menu, but were eager to try a couple main dishes to round out the evening, we decided on the Tarragon Roasted Chicken and the Cajun Grilled Salmon. The chicken, two generous pieces, was well seasoned with a sprig of fresh tarragon as it rested on a bed of haricoverts and roasted baby red potatoes. This all swam in a creamy tarragon sauce perfect for sopping up with the chicken and the crusty table bread. The haricoverts – a perfectly steamed bed of green beans were crisp and a good companion to the tender chicken and potatoes. The Salmon came resting on a bed of corn and sweet potato garnish, and drizzled with a light lime aoli sauce. Cooked to a Cajun perfect crisp on the outside, the inside was still a mouth watering perfect medium. The fried sweet potato crisps on top as well as the sweet potato and corn relish smoothed out the flavor of the lime and Cajun spices. This kept our palate interested as we eagerly devoured it.

Tarragon Roasted Chicken

To put a sweet ending to the evening, our waiter happily relayed the ample dessert menu to us. We decided to try the Vanilla Bean Cheesecake and the Chocolate Cake. The cheesecake came with a light strawberry sauce and a few fresh strawberries. Perfectly in season with the strawberry festivals and farm stands across the east end and north fork, the juicy berries well complimented the hearty flavor of the cheesecake. The chocolate cake came with a dollop of vanilla ice cream, and swam in a rich chocolate sauce. So good, our dinner companion threatened to renege on the offer to share. While the appetizers are generous enough to share, we recommend ordering separate desserts, lest you risk fighting over the last bite. Both were very rich, but well worth leaving a bit of room for.

At the end of the evening we left the calm cozy restaurant very satisfied. Chef Peter Miller proves why he is practically a household name as he brings his talent to CoCo Restaurant in East Hampton. Open seven days a week for dinner in season, you can reach them at 631-324-5006 for reservations or more information.