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Added: September 15, 2005, 2:55 pm

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Annona - Where Perfection Comes Naturally

New restaurants usually go through a few growing pains before perfecting their menu, service and style, but for Annona of Westhampton Beach, perfection comes naturally. Upon entering this fine eatery, you will be transported into one of the most elegant restaurants on the East End.

The décor is simple and classic with a chic urban artistic edge. Beautiful artwork, soft music and flickering candles enhance the restaurants warm romantic atmosphere. On this particular night, my friend and I were escorted to a comfy high-back rounded booth with views of Annona's lush rooftop "Garden of Eden" (it truly is,) providing a tranquil backdrop. The ambiance is subtle offering the option for an intimate dinner or gathering of friends and family.

Before we began our journey into the abyss of fine Italian dining, we were greeted by Micah who guided us through our tour of wines that were being served as pairings with each course. Although we were reminded throughout the evening to save room for the next pairing, each vintage tasted more sublime than the next, making it difficult to put down our glasses. A Pear and Basil Salad made from crisp refreshing autumn pears, dressed in olive oil and basil and topped off with aged pecorino and 24 Month Aged Prosciutto di Parma accompanied with a cantaloupe melon shooter and melon butter crostini paired with two glasses of Albana di romagna Tremonti 2003 was a delightful introduction. The Pear and Basil Salad was almost too pretty to eat, but we knew if it tasted as good as it looked, it wouldn't be a problem. And it did. The cantaloupe melon shooter boasted a garlic flavor, which complimented the saltiness of the delicious aged prosciutto.

Next up was Annona's Chestnut Ravioli prepared in a brown butter and sage sauce and Carnaroli Risotto made with sweet peppers and parmesan paired with Lagrien rosato cantini Bolzano 2004. Delicately cooked petite raviolis coated with a sensational sweet brown butter proved heavenly. As for the Carnaroli Risotto, it was the perfect medley of sweet and pungent flavor mixed with a creamy, but not overbearing sauce. In addition to the regular menu, nightly specials are carefully created by Executive Chef Sara Jenkins to provide customers the best of the best. Sara prides herself on using local farms and purveyors to guarantee freshness and quality with every dish.

After taking a brief intermission, our entrees were delivered. Local Striped Bass served in an aromatic broth with baby beets, lima beans (my favorite) and carrots (paired with Vermentino colli di luni 2003) and a Free Range Veal Chop with green beans and radishes (paired with Barbaresco produttori rio sordo 1999) were presented. We intended on sharing, but I favor fish while my friend the veal. Every morsel of the striped bass was moist and flavorful, but I insisted we switch for a moment. My motive was of course to sample the veal chop as well, and I have to admit, I had more than a bite. The meat was tender and simply spiced with pepper and perhaps a hint of garlic that cooked into the meat to create a juicy texture. The wood burning stove technique that Sara uses with many of her dishes offers a unique flavor.

And, just when we thought our evening was complete, two decadent desserts found their way to our table. It was the Olive Oil Cake served with lemon cream and blackberries and Chocolate Lemon Tart made from Valrhona chocolate and topped with crème fraiche paired with a bubbly Brachetto marenco nv that finished our evening on a high note.

Annona's General Manager Pietro Bottero has selected a professional and sophisticated staff not commonly found in many restaurants. There were no empty water glasses, spotted silverware, or missing bread baskets in this establishment - impeccable service all the way.

The expertise of Culinary Advisor Zakary Pelaccio, General Manager Pietro Bottero and Executive Chef Sara Jenkins has accomplished owner Rich Rubio's vision of fine dining in an unconventional setting. There is nothing short of excellence offered at Annona. I have a feeling; they may soon have a waiting list for reservations.

Annona's is open 6 nights per week (closed Mondays). Reservations are recommended. Located at 112 Riverhead Road, Westhampton Beach. Call 631-288-7766.


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