Welcome to Hamptons.com's Members Only section!

Members Only

Username:
Password:

 Remember me

food and wine

« main articles

Added: August 16, 2006, 3:43 pm

   Share    Print

A Balance of Ying and Yang - Madame Tong's

With the end of summer fast approaching, we wanted to take the chance to fit in a few more chances for outdoor dining on the East End before thoughts of fall and cold weather rolled in. This presented the perfect chance to try out Madame Tong's in Southampton. We'd stopped by last fall for a benefit concert to raise funds for hurricane victims, and we were eager for the chance to stop back and try some of the food we'd been hearing so much about.

Situated just around the corner from the train station, it seems the perfect spot to stop for some fresh air and cocktails after a busy week at work. Just inside, it feels like the train could have dropped you at a point much further east… Deep red walls and Asian influenced décor seemed to fill every nook from the ornate wooden window dividers to the cute parasols cleverly used to disguise the tell tale speakers of the restaurant's night club alter ego. Just beyond the cozy dining room and lounge area, the patio spread out invitingly towards the back lawn. It was an easy choice as we picked an outdoor table in the late afternoon shade.

Eyeing the very balanced menu, we couldn't help but be intrigued by the offer of a Lychee Fruit Martini. Despite its unassuming arrival – the lychee could almost be mistaken for its olive or cocktail onion compatriots, however the sweet but refreshing drink secured a spot as one of our favorites. Just enough lychee juice sweetened the drink without overpowering the delicate martini balance.

Rejuvenated, we turned our attention to what to order to eat. Even the ying and yang of colors flowed down the page reflected the careful balance of choices, a true blend of Pan-Asian selections. We couldn't help but start with the staple favorite, a plate of steamed edamame, and a plate of Bamboo Steamed Vegetable Dumplings. Nestled in bamboo baskets, both were generous in serving size, perfect to share. The vegetables inside the dumplings were delicate and tender, the shitake mushrooms complimenting without overpowering the other vegetables, which mixed well with the punch of the Hoisin Dipping sauce.

Next, at the suggestion of our very personable server – we tried the Tamarind Glazed Spare Ribs. Arriving in a generous bowlful, the ribs were as juicy looking as they tasted. Slow cooked in a ginger and garlic sauce, they were so falling-off-the-bone tender, we hardly needed more than a fork to pull some free for a taste. Ribs could generally be thought of as a finger food, and the tasty glaze would leave anyone licking their fingers for more. Available in both an appetizer and an entrée size, we recommend you add this signature dish to your order.

After the hearty appetizers, we were ready to sample a few rolls off the sushi portion of the menu. The house special, Red Dragon Roll, immediately piqued our interest, as well as the Spicy Tuna Roll, and the Hamptons California Roll with a name too good to pass up. The rolls came artfully arranged on a square platter, dotted with a spiced red pepper sauce as well as the standard ginger and wasabi.

The Hamptons California Roll, named for its Cutchogue cucumber, immediately caught our eye with the tri-color sprinkling of orange, green and red Tobiko (Caviar or Flying Fish Eggs for the non-sushi linguists). The tender crab and avocado paired well with the local cucumber to put a new twist on an old favorite. Trying the Red Dragon roll next, we quickly discovered how it earned its 'house specialty' title. The perfectly seared eel and cucumber nestled inside the roll was a smooth contrast to the Spicy Tuna Crown, drizzled with kabayaki tare and red pepper sauces. So good, we almost wish we had ordered two rolls as to who got the last piece was under hot debate. For the final roll, we tried the Spicy Tuna roll with Crunchy Tempura Flakes. As much a sushi menu staple as the California Roll, we were eager to try Madame Tong's take on it. The dab of tasty red pepper sauce topped the roll, offering an added punch to the tasty spicy tuna nestled underneath. The crunch of the tempura wasn't as noticeable an ingredient, but we hardly missed it as the delicate tuna more than made up for it.

Finally turning our attention to the entrees on the menu, we decided to try the Miso Glazed Catch of the day stuffed with Crab Meat and Shitake Mushrooms. The day's catch turned out to be a very tender flounder, and two fillets arrived wrapped around a generous helping of the stuffing. The shitake mushrooms brought us back to the tasty memory of the steamed vegetable dumplings, and benefited from the addition of the crab and flounder. The miso glaze rounded out the dish as an ideal pairing with the delicate fish and flavorful stuffing. Served with a Watercress Salad and aromatic Basmati rice, the two filets made the dish ideal for sharing after sampling all of the sushi earlier.

After going from the warm appetizers to the cool sushi to the warm entrée, we were ready to mix things up a little for dessert. Never ones to pass up chocolate, the menu's selection of chocolate desserts had our mouths watering. With our success with the martini, the Chocolate Soufflé with Lychee Essence caught our eye, but we finally agreed on the Chocolate and Ginger Crème Brulee. The pairing intrigued us as the crème brulee has decidedly European roots, we were eager to try it with the ginger addition. Cracking the sugar crust, we discovered the best way to enjoy was to take a deep spoonful of the custard as the chocolate and ginger hid underneath in layers. The spice of the ginger melded well with the sweet chocolate, all topped with the sweet crunch shell signature of the crème brulee. Each bite is worth pausing to enjoy each of the distinct flavors.

Finally, to cool down, we sampled the fresh vanilla ice cream. Mixed with a selection of fresh berries left whole for a flavorful punch, the rich ice cream rivaled the decadence of some of its chocolate menu companions as we savored each spoonful before it melted in our mouths.

At the end of the meal, we sat back to enjoy the cool evening and took the chance to walk around the spacious garden. The outdoor fireplace was already lit, giving it a cozy campfire feel, and we couldn't help but feel relaxed. Madame Tong's takes care to carefully balance everything, from the ying and yang of the red and black menu, the bold red décor paired with the soft accents, to the careful balance of the sweet and spicy, cool and warm, in each of the menu choices.

We highly recommend giving them a visit, perfect for cocktails and sushi with friends after the train, or an intimate dinner for two. Madame Tong's is located at the JL Beach Club, 256 Elm Street Southampton, and can be reached at (631) 204-0300 or www.madametongs.com on the web. Open for dinner seven days a week, reservations are recommended. And don't forget to stay after dessert to sample some of their music and dancing!


For more information, click here.