Chef Colin Ambrose likes to spice things up in the kitchen.

Sag Harbor - Serving up some of the spiciest food this side of Shinnecock Canal, Estia's Little Kitchen, located just a mile south of the village on the Bridgehampton-Sag Harbor Turnpike, unexpectedly takes your taste buds on a trip to Tijuana.

Proprietor and chef, Colin Ambrose, who claims a love of entertaining at an early age led him to work his way through college in restaurants and pubs, developed a style and attitude that reflects his spirited flare in the kitchen.

In his previous restaurant in Amagansett, Ambrose mentioned that he used 12 acres of vacant land - owned by executive producer of "Saturday Night Live" Lorne Michaels - to grow fresh vegetables. When asked how much he had to pay to rent the land, he quipped, "We gave him a nice tuna sandwich every once in awhile." Ambrose uses blueberries, rhubarb, apples, and peaches in his culinary creations that he grows near the Sag Harbor restaurant.

His current specialty is dubbed "Braided Steak Azteca," which serves four and is made with hanger steak - and loaded with plenty of healthy veggies and tasty seasonings. The key ingredient, according to Ambrose, is adobo chilies. When asked why this dish, and why now, he answered that it is the recipe he is entering in an upcoming contest at the National Restaurant Association Convention.

In the dark of the evenings, lights are dimmed and the tables are covered in linen, giving it an entirely new ambiance. Ambrose says, "A lot of my customers who have eaten breakfast here
for years have never had dinner here. They walk in and it's a whole new experience."

Who knew hanger steak could look and taste so good?

What's coming up next for the chef? "Other things in the media are brewing but I really can't talk about it at this time."

Braided Steak Azteca (Serves 4)

2 pounds hanger steak
2 adobo chilies (dried, smoked chilies)
4 to 6 red skin potatoes
20 pieces asparagus
2 red onions
3 tablespoons kosher salt
1 tablespoon celery salt
1 tablespoon cumin (ground)
1 tablespoon garlic powder
1 tablespoon black peppers
4 tablespoons butter (unsweetened)
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 limes
8 toothpicks

Combine the seasoning in advance and set aside.

Start with the hanger steak, trim all silver skin, slice the steak into strips the width of your index finger and season the strips lightly with the seasoning mix. Next, braid the steak strips three pieces at a time. Use toothpicks to connect the ends and set the braided steaks aside for at least 30 minutes.

Chef Ambrose uses fresh vegetables whenever possible.

To prepare the potatoes, slice each potato into quarters then drop them into boiling water for 15 minutes. Remove and set aside on a plate. When the potatoes are removed from the water, replace them with asparagus for two minutes at full boil. Remove the asparagus and cool in ice water. Meanwhile remove as many seeds as possible then crush the chilies in a mortar and pestle until powder-like. To prepare the red onions, slice, squeeze lemon on top, wrap in foil, and cook on grill top.

Plan ahead so that your grill can reach the correct temperature: a BBQ that is burning charcoal should be allowed to burn down to a glow before the steaks go on, while a gas grill should be heated and turned to medium.

Place the steak braids on the grill and season again lightly (turning every three minutes). Then, over medium heat, add the butter in a sauté pan, followed by potatoes and finally the chili powder and a pinch of salt. Toss until cooked though. Finally, toss the asparagus in olive oil and grill for four minutes or until hot through. Plate with a wedge of lime.

Locals and visitors alike appreciate the warmth of Estia's, as well as the food.

The Zagat-rated Estia's Little Kitchen is open for breakfast and lunch seven days, and for dinner on the weekends. For reservations and other information, call 631-725-1045.