Bronze and jade cover the walls at Muse while fish swim at the bar and each plate is a feast for the senses with familiar flavors combined in innovative, focused, and well executed ways. Photos by Nicole B. Brewer

Executive Chef Matthew Guiffrida

Water Mill - If you're looking to get out of the cold and check out a mellow vibe this winter head over to Muse Restaurant & Aquatic Lounge if not just for their delicious eats, and at only $24.95 for their all night prix fixe who could refuse, but just to check out their fish tank topped bar, which boasts all sorts of delightful little swimmers under glass, and have a cocktail with friends.

Executive Chef Matthew Guiffrida, a formally trained chef who traveled extensively after studying at the Le Cordon Bleu Schools North America, brings a sense of humor and relatability to every bite he serves. Familiar flavors combined in innovative, focused, and well executed ways are his signature. For example, the popular "Breakfast 4 Supper" which combines extra thick cut grilled bacon and black pepper and Parmesan 'French toast' with chipolte maple syrup alongside a sweet potato and corned beef hash topped with the traditional poached egg and Bearnaise sauce. It is a savory combination that seems too indulgent for dinner but if it's on a dinner menu you've got to try it at least once, and then you'll order it again and again.

So many of his dishes seem like they could have come from a favorite Grandma's kitchen and Guiffrida gives a few special ladies the credit for the inspiration. "From school I really focused on the techniques," said Guiffrida. "At school you learn the classical French and I knew that wasn't what I wanted to do so I really focused on techniques. I was just trying to absorb all that I could. My mother and grandmother were really inspiring to me. They loved to cook and I really loved to eat. They cooked all the time and my mom learned from her and I just watched and learned."

Breakfast 4 Dinner

The "Not Ya Mama's Meatballs," one of Guiffrida's favorite sampler dishes on the menu, combines four savory three-bite meatballs from all the corners of the globe - sweet and spicy Asian, saucy and Parmesan dusted Italian, creamy Swedish, and Thanksgiving (a nod to an American favorite with turkey, cranberry, and caramelized Vidalia onion). For salads, "Not So Classic Caesar" has all of the flavors you'd expect but none of the fuss served in a puff pastry basket, this lemony Caesar has bright flavors and plenty of shaved Pecorino Romano cheese. With authentic South-of-the-Border flavors the "Really, Really, Really Soft Taco" has an architecturally focused presentation with barbecued pulled pork resting atop corn masa, similar to polenta, and a delicious avocado coulis and cilantro crème fraiche.

Considering the menu, Guiffrida says, "There are a lot of samplers on the menu so if there's something that you wanted to try but something that you don't there are four things on the plate." Fans of the samplers include the likes of Kelly Ripa and Mark Consuelos, as well as chefs Eric Ripert and Rocco DiSpirito. "With this menu there is duck, steak, fish, things that you can identify with but in ways that are different," he further explained.

Hawaiian Style Atlantic Salmon

He's not kidding with "Three Little Piggys" on the supper menu with a deep fried housin glazed St. Louis style rib, a Worcestershire BBQ pork belly over cheddar cheese oatmeal, and finally a smoked pulled pork with maple spiked mustard on a green onion Johnny Cake and homemade apple butter. Individually they are all delicious, together on a plate they are a little bit of everything you wanted to try and more. The "Deep South" sampler, seen first at the James Beard House, is here with a twist on fried chicken, biscuits and sausage gravy, and shrimp and grits. In this 'southern' mix you'll find Long Island Duck and Asiago cheesy grits, it is not for those on a diet. Dishes like these are perfect for casual nights out with friends or second dates when you are really comfortable with your dinner partner.

Tradition be damned as the chef has his way with Pacific flavors with "Hawaiian Style Atlantic Salmon." Salmon never tasted so good as it is here glazed with curry coconut and crusted with Macadamia nuts, over top of roasted garlic strussel and sherried creamed corn 'poi' and plantain lau lau. Not what you'd expect but each bite just gets better and better.

Beyond the samplers, a regular favorite is the "Mambo Chicken Italiano." Lightly breaded chicken cutlets are topped with Roma tomatoes over herbed Parmesan spetzel in a pesto cream sauce. It's just like Mama used to make, only better.

Really, Really, Really Soft Taco

Rounding out the meal is dessert - again with plenty of twists and old favorites made new like the Fluffernutter. Think back to childhood days and now imagine a pancake-like base topped with peanut butter infused whipped cream and a large marshmallow topper and swirls of caramel. The texture is light and creamy and so reminiscent of the sandwich you'll order a second to take home. Also for dessert is a Chocolate Trio, mini cheesecake, and crème brulee as well as assorted cordials and spiked coffees.

Beyond the food, Muse, open since May 2007, offers monthly cooking classes in the bronze and jade painted restaurant with an Italian night coming up in January. Now, back to that bar which you can't help but notice when you enter the restaurant. Guiffrida laughed when asked, "I didn't want a TV at the bar but I wanted something you could watch. In every restaurant I've been at you see a lot of couples on first dates or married couples and it gives you something to talk about. We wanted to do something different." From the conversation topic sparking bar to the inspired fare, Muse Restaurant & Aquatic Lounge is both very different and very good.

 • Muse Restaurant & Aquatic Lounge is located at 760 Montauk Highway, Water Mill Shopping Center, Suite 5A, Water Mill, 631-726-2606.