Café Max owners Nancy and Max Weintraub proudly declare their restaurant "unHampton." Photos by Sheila Cosgrove Baylis

East Hampton - Café Max owners Nancy and Max Weintraub proudly declare their restaurant "unHampton." It's certainly unfussy and rustic and draws a faithful local crowd every week, but Café Max is "very Hamptons" in the sense that it has been an East Hampton staple for 17 years.

Spring roll and the sliced charred sashimi.

The Weintraubs are still very involved in the everyday workings of the restaurant after all of these years. Nancy hosts while Max cooks, though he does come out of the kitchen from time to time to check on his customers, many of whom are now his friends.

Although it feels like you're in the Weintraub's home, a log cabin with a homey, down-to-earth feel, Café Max has at least one of the accouterments of a more complicated restaurant: an extensive wine list. They've received 10 Wine Spectator awards and have hard-to-find bottles such as Opus One and Joseph Phelps Insignia.

Max's scallops melt in the mouth.

Alongside the pricey wines you can find a 'Recession Buster' special that includes three courses for $21 on Sunday, Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday. There's also a two-course, $22 Early Bird special on Friday evening from 5:30 p.m. to 5:55 p.m., and Cathy is very strict about early birders arriving before six.

There's an array of seafood appetizers available, but the absolute best is the fried calamari. It's light and crispy, not a bit soggy or chewy. Also good is the flavorful spring roll and the sliced charred sashimi.

The cold shrimp and crabmeat platter are perfect for the sea- food lover.

For entrees, the cold shrimp and crabmeat platter are perfect for the seafood lover. The fresh shrimp and crab comes in an impressively-large portion and with delicious vegetables. Max's scallops melt in the mouth and are simply seasoned, allowing the full flavor of the seafood to come through.

The pumpkin pie with strawberry sauce was a nice finish and perfect for the season. If you order a birthday dessert, it will come out to a strobe light and the Beatles' song "Birthday," another fun detail. If you're looking for fresh and plentiful seafood in a laid-back atmosphere, Café Max is it.

 • Cafe Max is located at 85 Montauk Highway, East Hampton, www.unhampton.com, 631-324-2004.