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Added: July 14, 2005, 5:03 pm

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A Little Philosophy from Loaves and Fishes

What makes a good home kitchen? To find out, we went to the experts at Loaves and Fishes cook shop and spoke with owner Sybille VanKempen. We went expecting a simple list of items that could be purchased but we came away instead with a philosophy, one that is embodied by the shop and its wares: an investment in good equipment pays off for any home cook.

"We buy only a certain level of quality, the best the industry has to offer so you receive the best value for your money and you're not coming back, for example, with a broken garlic press," said Sybille. You might have to pay $35 for the one offered at Loaves and Fishes but you will never have to buy another.

"Another approach to the basic kitchen is that you should consider what you use and not have cupboards full of things that are never used. People used to have several basic bowls, beautiful bowls that were used for everything. More is not necessarily better," Sybille asserts.

The folks at Loaves and Fishes also value items that have a connection to the community. "When we opened the store I commissioned sets of hand thrown bowls from Nancy Robins and they were so well received. They weren't all that expensive and people felt they had something really special. We also commissioned pie dishes from her and she asked why when there are all these great dishes from France and so on. And I said: 'Nancy, I think a pie made in one of your beautiful hand made dishes tastes a lot better than a pie made in a dish by someone I don't know.' "

A bit of history:

When the store opened three seasons ago, the VanKempens sensed a hunger in the area for culinary classes and a store that carried high-end equipment. They turned to the Viking Company, well known for its commercial-grade stoves and the shop became one of the few establishments to carry every item manufactured by the company. The cooking classes, which are carried on the shoulders of the shop's success because they are not moneymaking ventures, started right away.

One factor for the stores success, says Sybille, is the fact that they provide the best in personal service. "We are here as owners and operators and we tend to the personal needs of every customer that comes in. If someone in the food industry needs a certain mold for their dessert menu we go out of our way to get him or her two dozen of those molds. We are very reactive. If a particular thing is wanted or needed and it's out there we will find it. Which is a whole other mind set than most cookshops. They have what they have," said Sybille.

On the topic of what is needed to make a great kitchen:

"I think there are two ways of looking at this. One is the ultimate kitchen or a kitchen that is workable for everybody. One of the key components is what is in the kitchen already. I ask customers when they come in what are you cooking on? Electric? Gas? High BTU level? Cooking equipment is designed for specific uses. Cookware that might do very well for an electric range or a lower level BTU gas range, and there is a lot of great stuff available, will literally burn up on a high level range. Stainless steel is generally a good choice but some of the older products were not made thick enough to withstand the higher heat of the ranges now available."

"I question the customer closely. If they are looking to replace their cookware, I ask why? Are they getting a new range? What is the new range? What are they cooking on and baking in?
It's really all about communication. A kitchen is very personal. And although most basic kitchens have a lot in common, the specific kitchen has specific needs based on lifestyle and different cuisines."

"I think one of the keys of a good home kitchen is your hands. Although small appliances are useful, the most useful tool is your hands. But I don't sell hands here in the store. So we'll skip over basic number one! And most kitchens have too many small appliances: a toaster and a toaster oven for instance. There's a blender and a food processor and a mixer but now you can buy single appliances that perform a number of those functions. You can unclutter your counters with a mixer that has a blender and a juicer attachment."

What about knives?

"You don't need the finest knives available for the basic kitchen but you do need to become committed to maintaining a sharp edge on your knives, and if you don't know how you can come to us and learn or we will send them out and have them sharpened for you. There are also any number of gadgets available to sharpen knives and we sell those. But there are also gadgets we will not sell. People come in and ask for electric can openers all the time. I will never sell an electric can opener. I think opening a can manually is good for the hands. And as we grow older we tend to lose mobility. I think using your hands, cooking with your hands is so important. Besides, apart from opening dog and cat food cans you shouldn't be opening that many cans anyway!"

Good food makes everyone feel good. Being able to cook it in a beautiful and highly functional kitchen only adds to the rewards, a fact that is clearly recognized by the VanKempens. To sum up her philosophy, Sybille noted, "This is a happy industry and that's another reason we did this. It's a celebration of life."


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Larry Hayden is an award-winning chef who has worked at notable Manhattan restaurants including Arcadia, The United Nations Plaza Hotel and Union Square Cafe. An honors graduate of the New York Restaurant School, he later established its Pastry Arts Program and was awarded its Distinguished Career Award. His articles and recipes have been featured in Country Living Magazine, House Beautiful, Martha Stewart Living, Food & Wine, The Barefoot Contessa Cookbook, The Union Square Cafe Cookbook and The Revised Joy of Cooking. Six years ago he settled on the East End. He has been the pastry chef at The Barefoot Contessa and Nick & Toni's and currently works with the Springs General Store as well as a freelance private chef, writer and teacher. Send him email at pantigo1@aol.com