In Season Now: Cauliflower

By Lenn Thompson

I hate cauliflower - or at least I thought I did. Growing up in a suburb outside of Pittsburgh, the only cauliflower I ever ate came frozen in a bag with a bright orange 'cheese' sauce. A few minutes in a microwave and out it came - a mushy, gross, amalgam of anti-deliciousness.

I guess I tried it raw, with the ubiquitous dill dip, too, and I didn't like the texture or the flavor that way either. So, I gave up on cauliflower, the white cousin of cabbage, brussel sprouts, kale, broccoli, and collard greens. It's a shame that I did because cauliflower is extremely nutritious. It's low in fat, high in dietary fiber, foliate and vitamin C and even contains sulforaphane, an anti-cancer compound released when cauliflower is chopped or chewed.

Roasted cauliflower is truly delicious.

Of course, cauliflower is also low in carbohydrates and that is how I was re-introduced to it - through my journey into low-carb eating a few years ago. You see, you can prepare cauliflower in such a way that it will almost convince you that it is a starchy, carb-filled potato.

That was until I read somewhere, some time ago, that by roasting it, you can make it taste almost like a French fry - a healthy French fry because you're just roasting a vegetable, not frying a starchy potato.

This mimicry is most successful when you make mock mashed potatoes, which can be flavored with all the things you use with regular mashed potatoes - chives, roasted garlic, blue cheese, bacon, etc.

Cauliflower Puree (a/k/a Mock Mashed Potatoes)

1/2 lb. cauliflower florets, chopped (2 2/3 cups)
1 garlic clove, smashed
1/3 cup chicken broth
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons heavy cream
1 teaspoon unsalted butter

• Simmer cauliflower, garlic, broth, and salt in a small saucepan, covered, until cauliflower is very tender, about 10 minutes. Purée mixture with cream and butter in a food processor until smooth (use caution when blending hot liquids), or mash with a potato masher or a fork.

My wife and I love this simple puree served with everything from grilled pork tenderloin to roast turkey to seared scallops. It's even better with bacon, but then again, what isn't?

Another great way to enjoy cauliflower is to cut it into small florets and roast it in a hot oven. Every time we cook it this way, I'm left wishing we had cooked more of it.

Roasted Curried Cauliflower

12 cups cauliflower florets (from about four pounds cauliflower)
1 large onion, peeled, quartered
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
3/4 cup olive oil
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
3 1/2 teaspoons curry powder
1 tablespoon Hungarian hot paprika
1 3/4 teaspoons salt
1/4 cup chopped fresh cilantro

• Preheat oven to 450°F. Place cauliflower florets in large roasting pan. Pull apart onion quarters into separate layers; add to cauliflower. Stir coriander seeds and cumin seeds in small skillet over medium heat until slightly darkened, about five minutes. Crush coarsely in mortar with pestle. Place seeds in medium bowl. Whisk in oil, vinegar, curry powder, paprika, and salt. Pour dressing over vegetables; toss to coat. Spread vegetables in single layer. Sprinkle with pepper. Roast vegetables until tender, stirring occasionally, about 35 minutes. (Can be made two hours ahead. Let stand at room temperature. Reheat in 450°F oven 10 minutes, if desired). Mound vegetables in large bowl. Sprinkle with fresh cilantro. Serve warm or at room temperature.

Local cauliflower is all over the East End right now at many farmstands. Try some yourself, just stop by the Little Farm Stand, located at 92 Spring Close Highway in East Hampton (Open daily 9 a.m. to 6 p.m. from June to early Oct.), and on the North Fork try Farmer Joe's, located at 1760 Albertson's Lane in Greenport (Open daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. from May to Oct.), and tell them Hamptons.com sent you.

Lenn Thompson lives in Sound Beach with his wife Nena and infant son, Jackson. He is the former editor of the Long Island Wine Gazette and writes about local wines for several media outlets including AppellationAmerica.com , Edible East End, and his blog LENNDEVOURS.com. He loves hearing from readers and fellow local wine enthusiasts. You can email him at lenndevours@gmail.com.