Medals Abound!

The hot news on the cold bubbly front is that Long Island sparkling wines are going head to head with their French and California counterparts and bringing home the gold. East End vineyards are coming into maturity after thirty years and are taking advantage of the mild maritime climate to produce exceptional succulent grapes left to ripen on the vine to the last minute. Hand them over to the loving care and knowledge of master wine makers who do the voodoo that they do and what emerges will knock your cork off and for a fraction of the price of their competitors.

Champagne is the nomenclature reserved purely for a product that is made in Champagne France, so what we have domestically is technically sparkling wine made with the methode Champenoise, a labor intensive and costly process where the wine undergoes a secondary fermentation inside the bottle. Keeping a hands on approach, local boutique wineries produce only a small number of cases compared to the mass production of the larger French houses.

Often these limited editions can only be purchased at the wineries themselves, but if you haven't taken a day to explore the vineyards of the North and South Fork and sample their other award winning varietals, your taste buds haven't lived. Not only are you supporting local area businesses, you are helping to preserve the agricultural nature of this beautiful island.

Lenz Winemaker Eric Fry

THE LENZ WINERY
Main Road Route 25, Peconic - 631-734-6010
www.lenzwine.com

With bragging rights to some of the area's oldest vines (if only women of a certain age were appreciated this much) Lenz has long been a leader in Long Island wines. Winemaker Eric Fry speaks of his varietals as he would beloved children, eager to share the accomplishments of his progeny. Combining a degree in microbiology and psychology, five years at the powerhouse Mondavi, and a 17 year love affair with the local grapes, Fry has perfected his skill at pleasing different palates. He suggests moving sparkling wine up from the cocktail hour to be enjoyed with dinner, matching the lightness or richness of the Cuvee to the dish.

The Lenz 1999 Cuvee, a 70% Chardonnay and 30% Pinot Noir combination finished in a dry style lends its lean, fresh, aromatic taste with hints of pineapple to any meal which a white wine would compliment. The 1991 Cuvee RD or recently disgorged is the rich, mature cousin with more of a toasty, earthy component. For each sparkling wine vintage, 60 or 70 cases are held back to continue aging and improving in the bottle for another five or six years. This late finishing process referred to as RD or recemment degorge gives a nutty earthiness that overlays the original fruit base of the wine.

In a direct competition, professional tasters at the Gramercy Tavern scored the Lenz Cuvees as on par with Veuve Clicquot gold label and La Grande Dame. Although the point count was close the price point was not.

Lenz Cuvee 1999 - $29.99
Lenz Cuvee 1991 RD - $50.00

Lieb Family Cellars 2001 Blanc de Blanc

LIEB FAMILY CELLARS
Premium Wine Group, 35 Cox Neck Rd., Mattituck - 631-734-1100
www.liebcellars.com

The Lieb Family Cellars 2001 Blanc de Blanc sparkling wine just returned from a west coast trip with a Gold Medal from the prestigious LA County Fair wrapped around its graceful neck. The event hosts 100 of the world's finest wine-judging professionals who taste an astounding 5,000 international entries. Wine Spectator also named the Lieb sparkler among the "Best American Sparkling Wines". Made entirely from Pinot Blanc grapes and harvested by hand, this dry vibrant sparkling wine evokes apple, honey, and citrus aromas and flavors. As well as harvesting by hand Lieb Family Cellars is committed to self-sustained agriculture without harsh chemicals.

General Manager Gary Madden attributes much of the success of the Blanc de Blanc to fans such as Ted Conklin of the American Hotel in Sag Harbor and Andre Compeyre from Alain Ducasse in Manhattan and their promotion on their prestigious wine lists. Even the French Ambassador has enjoyed Lieb's wines. Perfectly paired with shellfish, this sparkler can compliment any of the sea's bounty and has been known to create romantic sparks when accompanied by local fresh oysters. Just beware, Gary will make you sign the "no mimosa contract" before you can buy the bubbly. Lieb is part of the Premium Wine Group.

Lieb Family Cellars 2001 Blanc de Blanc - $35.00

MARTHA CLARA VINEYARDS
6025 Sound Avenue, Rte. 48, Riverhead - 631-298-0075
www.marthaclaravineyards.com

Where else can you stroke Alpaca (the animals, not the sweater), listen to live jazz, and watch the fine bubbles rise in a stream to the surface of your Brut (the sparking wine, not your date)? Martha Clara Vineyards is not only a stop to pick up a bottle of bubbly but to enjoy an entire afternoon on a working farm with horse drawn carriage tours and live entertainment.

If you detect that the Martha Clara Brut has a resemblance to your favorite sparkling wines and champagnes, it's not surprising. The wine maker Gilles Martin is formerly of Roderer Estate and uses his expertise to combine 37% Pinot Noir and 63% Chardonnay estate grown grapes with whole cluster pressing and 12 to 18 month tirage to create the delicately complex composition with hints of ripe apple, red cherry, and citrus. Serve this as an aperitif, with a light meal, or dessert such as "Poire Belle Helene," a delicious poached pear.

The Brut has the blessing of the original Martha Clara the proprietor, Mr. Entemann's mother (that's right of the bakery fame) whose picture appears on the label. Watch this summer for three additional new sparkling wines: Blanc de Blanc, Cuvee Prestige, and a Rose Brut.

Martha Clara Brut - $19.99

THE OLD FIELD VINEYARDS
59600 Main Road, Rte. 25, Southold - 631-765-0004
www.theoldfield.com

Family owned and run for five generations, The Old Field started out growing fruits and vegetables and morphed into vines. Chris and Ros Baiz established the vineyard in 1974 and their most recent edition is the highly acclaimed 2000 Sparkling Blanc de Noir which was the bubbly of choice in the VIP room at the Windows on Long Island Wine event at Captiale restaurant in New York City. Filled with bright white cherry Pinot Noir fruit, it is the driest of sparkling wines and will delight your mouth with its tiny bubbles. Chris and Ros consult with winemaker Eric Fry to produce this special edition of only 1,000 bottles that has titillated tongues wagging.

Old Field is also a favorite site for weddings and events as it is the only Long Island winery with is own private beach. The authentic barn setting lends itself to a quiet afternoon where they welcome you to play horseshoes, checkers, or backgammon and join their family affair.

Old Field 2000 Sparkling Blanc de Noir - $35

Caption Here

PINDAR
Main Road, Rte. 25, Peconic - 631-734-6200
www.pindar.net

Pindar pioneered sparkling wine on Long Island, being one of the oldest and now the largest winery on the island with over 500 acres of vines. If you like dry, like really dry, a 0% finished sugar content, the 1998 Cuvee Rare Champagne is for you. Made from 100% Pinot Meunier grapes that give it its pale copper color, this Cuvee is one of the few "naturale" sparkling wines, meaning no brandy or sugar added. Aged 7 years in the cellar, its maturity, rush of bubbles, and subtle yeast and fruit flavors make it a rival to its older French cousin Dom Perignon. But instead of Benedictine monks, this sparkling wine is made by the Greek family of Dr. Herodotus Damianos who has handed the reins to his son Jason as the wine maker.

1998 Cuvee Rare Champagne - $27.99

PUGLIESE VINEYARDS
Main Road, Rte. 25, Cutchogue - 631-734-4057
www.pugliesevineyards.com

The Pugliese family still has a few choice bottles left from its first sparkling vintage in 1988, but the only way to get a taste of this prize is to marry into the family. With more awards than you can shake a vine at, Pugliese has won one of the absolute top honors, the Los Angeles County Fair Double Gold Best Sparkling Wine, Best of Class, Best of Show in 2001 for its Blanc de Blanc.

Offering the largest sparkling wine selection, Pugliese Vineyards has four choices ranging from very dry to sweet. One of the most popular is the 2000 Blanc de Blanc Brut, a traditional French style bubbly made from Chardonnay grapes. Pat Pugliese offers a special edition of this in her hand painted bottles. The 1999 Blanc de Noir "Nature" Champagne is the driest of the bunch with no dosage or added sugar. The light salmon color comes from the Pinot Noir grapes which are some of the first to come off the vines, leaving a crisp, light sparkling wine.

After receiving a Russian red champagne as a gift, the Puglieses developed their own red sparkler, the 1999 Sparkling Merlot with a zesty finish that has proven a big hit at Thanksgiving. For the sweet taste go for the Dolce Patricia 2001 which is also made from the Merlot grapes but is light pink in color and hints at rose bouquets.

2000 Blanc de Blanc Brut - $19.99 (hand painted bottle $25.99)
1999 Blanc de Noir "Nature" Champagne - $19.99
1999 Sparkling Merlot - $19.99
2001 Dolce Patricia - $19.99

A perfect setting for a party at Wolffer Estate!

WOLFFER ESTATE VINEYARDS
139 Sagg Road, Sagaponack - 631-537-5106
www.wolffer.com

Don't visit this vineyard unless you're prepared to fall in love. With a European flare the Italianate structure is magnificent with a large stone porch looking out on the acres of vines with a hidden gazebo tucked away. It's no wonder that their 2000 Wolffer Brut Sparkling Wine Cuvee inspires romance as it is made of 57% Chardonnay and 43% Pinot Noir grapes which were hand picked and pressed as gently as possible then aged and hand riddled until the pedigree emerges as a creamy mousse with aromas of ripe peaches and apricots. Wine maker Roman Roth has earned the respect of not only of the local vintners but those from around the country and world, having studied and worked in Germany, Australia, and California. Don't pass up the opportunity to hear him sing either – what a voice.

Perfect with shellfish, caviar, or smoked salmon, the Wolffer Brut is a palate refresher as well. The long, cool aging process gives this sparkling wine the exceptional balance and structure to age gracefully. (If only we were all so lucky.)

2000 Wolffer Brut Sparkling Wine Cuvee - $29.00

Cheers!

For further information and directions go to www.liwines.com sponsored by the Long Island Wine Council.