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Added: May 20, 2008, 6:12 pm

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Sophisticated Comfort Food - Le Chef Bistro

Le Chef Bistro in Southampton melds upscale sophistication with inviting comfort to create a pleasurable dining experience night after night. Photo by Lenn Thompson


In the Hamptons, we have seemingly endless choices when it comes to restaurants. From high-end food that rivals the top restaurants in Manhattan to 24-hour diners to super-casual seafood shacks and everything in between - you can find anything out here.

On a cool rainy evening in the early spring, my wife and I discovered yet another style of restaurant - a bistro so comfortable and delicious that it's like a warm hug from a long-lost friend. That restaurant is Le Chef Bistro, a nearly 30-year old restaurant in Southampton Village. Le Chef melds upscale sophistication with inviting comfort to create a pleasurable dining experience night after night.

After being greeted at the door by the lovely hostess, we were seated toward the back of the restaurant in a somewhat quiet corner that allowed us to survey the scene. When we arrived for our reservation early in the evening, we were one of only a handful of tables. By the time our meal had ended, the restaurant was near capacity with what appeared to be many regulars, as well as new patrons drawn by chef-owner Frank Lenihan's prix fixe menu. Of course, many of those regulars know that Lenihan offers a three-course menu daily - it is only $25.95 between 5 p.m. and 6 p.m. and $29.95 from 6 p.m. until closing.

Looking over a small, but well-thought out wine list (one that I wish included more local options), we chose a bottle of sauvignon blanc from the Loire Valley in France, which was delicious and paired nicely with our selections.

For an appetizer, my wife, Nena, chose the split pea-potato soup, which was great on a cool, rainy night. It was well seasoned, but a dollop of crème fraiche or a sprinkling of crispy pancetta would have raised it a level.

On a sunny afternoon relax witH a table al fresco. Photo by Christine Bellini

I, settling in for a true bistro experience, ordered the chef's pate for the evening, one made with pork, chicken and duck, and served with Dijon mustard, cornichons, and greens. The deliciously-fatty, savory pate was absolutely delicious and the tiny, briny pickles and zesty mustard provided perfect balance to the overall dish. I doubt I'll ever order any other appetizer at Le Chef. Why mess with a good thing?

Nena's entrée - flounder crusted with walnuts, pistachios, and almonds - was flavorful and was accompanied by sundried tomato tartar sauce. The crust at just the right thickness - not too thin, not too thick - was probably crispy right out of the pan, but it had softened a bit before hitting our table.

I thoroughly enjoyed my pan roasted Cornish hen with herbs and white wine. Again, it was well seasoned, moist and just plain well prepared. I love complex, intricate food as much as any foodie but sometimes simple, traditional dishes, when made well, are even more satisfying. As I pulled apart the bones to get at the last bits of juicy meat, I was left wanting another.

Instead, we moved on to dessert with cheesecake and a cappuccino mousse. As with the hen, these weren't complicated preparations, but as they disappeared as we chatted with the family at the next table - regular customers - they were, again, quite satisfying.

Overall, while there might be more sophisticated food available on the South Fork, and also restaurants that might seem more like home, it's hard to imagine one that combines the two so deftly.

 • Le Chef Bistro is located at 75 Jobs Lane, Southampton, 631-283-8581, www.LeChefBistro.com.


For more information, click here.


Lenn Thompson lives in Sound Beach with his wife Nena and infant son, Jackson. He is the former editor of the Long Island Wine Gazette and writes about local wines for several media outlets including AppellationAmerica.com , Edible East End, and his blog LENNDEVOURS.com. He loves hearing from readers and fellow local wine enthusiasts. You can email him at lenndevours@gmail.com.



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