OSO Restaurant Executive Chef Bryan Naylor and Res- taurant Director Kim Macurak. Photos by Nicole B. Brewer

Southampton - Having attended the opening of OSO Restaurant this past summer, my curiosity was piqued when I heard there was a new chef at the reins, as well as a restaurant director, excited to bring the food to another level. On a brisk fall evening I rustled together a few foodie friends and headed over to OSO to give the new menu a sample, we were pleasantly surprised.

For those who haven't been, OSO is located in the lower section of the Southampton Inn. Descending the stairs at night, you get the feeling that you are entering a Gatsby-era speakeasy and you are one of the chosen few who knows the secret password to gain entry. All we needed was our reservation and as we doffed our coats we met the friendly, capable staff who seemed ready and eager to serve.

Entering the dining room, filled with long rows of tables on two levels and comfortable banquet seating, we noticed the glow of candlelight flickering against the softly painted interiors. Here and there artwork representing and reminiscent of the sea dotted the walls.

Starters include lobster bisque and a delicate piquillo pepper.

Out from the kitchen strode Executive Chef Bryan Naylor. From the wide smile on his face his enthusiasm was evident, and he spoke to his passion for his craft. He genuinely wished each diner to enjoy what he and his team had created. He explained that he was working with only the best ingredients - local and exotic - to breathe new life into the restaurant.

After the introductions he suggested an amuse buche of slightly pungent buffalo mozzarella, tomato, baked prosciutto, and focaccia crouton to start. Paired with a lovely pinot noir it was a delicious way to begin our evening's dining experience.

Next came a traditional lobster bisque, served cafe au lait style in a demitasse cup with a large lobster swizzle stick. The creamy, silky texture of the bisque was filled with hints of saffron accented by the richness of lobster and heavy cream. As the soft jazz sounds of Michael Buble filled the air we enjoyed every drop and looked forward to the next course. Slightly larger than a hors d'oeuvre bit, a delicate piquillo pepper filled with whipped chevre cheese was presented with a sweet sherry vinaigrette and chorizo sausage. The combination of sweet and creamy cheese and the tang of the pepper mixed with garlic was smoky, subtle, and pleasing to the pallet.

Moving on to the heavier courses we sampled pork belly with micro-wasabi greens and Italian cous cous. While pork belly in general can be tough, we found this to be rather tender and slightly chewy, similar to spare ribs on a summer evening. The ginger and soy glaze complemented the mustard-like heat of the greens. Altogether a good dish and the fanciful effort of the presentation only served to accentuate the taste.

Wasabi kicks up pork belly, prime sirloin with a twist, and a trio of desserts end the meal.

As the server opened a bottle of Hob Nob pinot noir from the South of France, a delicious red filled with cherry, currant, and spice notes, we anticipated the heartier fare we would soon enjoy. A aromatic miniature skillet of cavatelli pasta, parma ham, and lobster was baked until bubbling with a crunchy crust. The homestyle appeal of comfort food in this dish was elevated by the addition of generous amounts of lobster, a favorite for the chef.

For the shellfish-shy, we tried the sweet pea risotto. Each bite held a taste of spring. Parmesan cheese, truffles, and mushrooms enhanced the meaty, earthy flavor of the peas which were a bit too al dente.

A crispy tempura coated seared tuna followed with a bit of Dijon mustard emulsion. Dense and meaty, this tuna, which comes packed in nitros flown in from Honolulu, maintains its character atop frugula, an Italian grain sauted in butter. Retaining the steakhouse-nature of the original OSO Restaurant, Chef Naylor served prime sirloin with a potato roll and onion jam. The sirloin was succulent and juicy. The onion jam was a sweet and tangy blend of sour cherries and onions, a great steak topper if there ever was one, and the potato roll was a masterful combination of Gorgonzola cheese and potato wrapped in a won-ton wrapper and baked. Together the plate was savory and sweet as well as hearty and delicate - such a combination of experiences at one time was pure food ecstasy.

After such a filling beginning - the ending was a trio of desserts served with a simple cappuccino – most fitting. Described by my fellow foodies as "lick the plate good" we sampled a tribute to strawberry shortcake with brioche, elderberry jam, strawberry whipped cream, and a surprising novelty strawberry Pop Rocks candy for crunch. Homemade cinnamon gelato with a miniature apple tart and flourless chocolate cake in a pistachio creme anglaise melted in our mouths like chocolate truffles.

Throughout the course of the meal you could truly sense the mastery and care that went into each dish. The menu is in development however, and the dishes mentioned here will be featured until the spring. Offering a fun twist on classic American fare OSO Restaurant is worth the trip.


 • OSO Restaurant - 91 Hill Street, Southampton, 631-283-1166, www.southamptoninn.com.