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Updated: March 17, 2009, 8:22 am	Share    Print    Email

Frittata d'Uova d'Anatra Con Asparagi e Pancetta as prepared by Chef James Gee of Cittanuova.

East Hampton - The seasonal changes in the weather signal seasonal changes at restaurants as a new batch of produce appears. In the hands of a master this bounty becomes amazing cuisine and tasty comfort food. Chef James Gee, of Cittanuova these past five years, agrees, "Spring is a pretty exciting time for cooking. My menus are always inspired by what I see at the markets or elsewhere. Aside from a few classics, I really just prepare what I feel like at the time."

Chef James Gee finished off the frittata with a light green salad.

Having spent the winter working with hearty slow cooked soups and slow braised pork shanks Gee says further, "Just as the first 55 degree day arrives and the sun peeks through the wall of thick gray clouds, you really get the urge to get fresher, lighter, and simpler. Fava beans, asparagus, morel mushrooms, ramps, fiddlehead ferns, and arugula all make their entrance. The veal and spring lamb are just around the corner. Eggs signify a new beginning, and we just can't eat any more pot roast, seriously."

Chef Gee loves eggs and prepares them often at home for his family and in the small but pristine restaurant kitchen for the Italian-fare loving masses. Maybe it's the fresh duck eggs, perhaps it's the handmade pancetta made by the chef himself, or maybe it's the simplicity that makes this dish a lunch favorite.

To recreate the typically Italian dish Chef Gee suggests over-cooking the vegetables until they are soft and then stopping the cooking with ice water. Don't be afraid of browning the eggs a bit assures Gee, "This is an Italian omelet, not a French omelet, but if you prefer a softer egg, keep the heat low." If you do not have pancetta on hand, available at most grocery stores these days, you can substitute with thick, center cut bacon. When it comes to flipping the frittata, which is the only way to enjoy a true frittata the chef says with a laugh, "You can attempt this in the cool way, or the safe way. If you need to do it the safe way, Google 'how to safely flip an omelet'."

Preparing the ingredients starting with the pancetta.

Frittata d'Uova d'Anatra Con Asparagi e Pancetta
(Omelet with duck eggs, asparagus, and bacon)
Recipe by Chef James Gee

1 bunch fresh asparagus
4 duck eggs (you can substitute chicken eggs)
2 oz. pancetta
1 large shallot
2 oz. grated parmigiano-reggiano cheese
Sea salt to taste

 • Bring four quarts of salted water to a boil, and get an ice bath ready as well. If the asparagus are large, cut off the lower third, and then peel the lower half to remove the thick woody skin. If they are pencil asparagus, simply chop off the lower third.

 • Drop the asparagus into the boiling water, bring to a boil and cook for two minutes if thin, and up to five minutes if really thick. You are looking for very tender asparagus while still retaining the green color. Transfer directly into the ice water to chill them completely. Drain and pat dry, and cut into half-inch pieces.

Gently loosen the sides as the eggs cook.

 • Slice the pancetta into cubes and dice the shallots.

 • Crack the duck eggs and whisk together, add a pinch of sea salt, set aside.

 • Prepare a skillet, begin to render the pancetta on a medium heat until lightly crispy. Remove from the pan, leave the rendered fat in the pan.

 • Lower the heat to medium-low and add the shallots to the rendered fat and cook until soft and translucent, about five minutes. Use a wooden spoon to really loosen up the small bits of pancetta and stir the shallots.

 • Add the beaten eggs and using a rubber spatula, gently loosen the sides as the egg cooks. Add the asparagus and the pancetta. Sprinkle with half of the grated parmigiano.

 • Flip the frittata, add the other half of the parmigiano, broil until the cheese begins to melt, serve.

The Cittanuova version of this delicious dish includes a simple arugula salad tossed with olive oil and a dash of salt placed on the top. The combination is hearty yet light, refreshing, and perfect for lunch - no wonder it flies off the menu.

 • Cittanuova is located at 29 Newtown Lane, East Hampton, 631-324-6300, www.cittanuova.com.